Friday 14 June 2013

Wednesday 17 April 2013

I just started Retin-A

I started using Retin-A 0.025% on April 1st. So far, I have not had any initial purge or the massive redness people often get. I think it is because I'm using the weakest strength and because I use it very sparingly. 

The only reactions I have seen is that my skin is a bit flaky (especially on the sides) and that my skin looks a bit pink when I wake up in the mornings. 

How do I use it? Every three nights, after cleansing and washing my face I apply some light serum or moisturizer. Then I wait one hour or so and I apply one pea size (never more than that) and I dot it on my cheeks, forehead and chin (I avoid the nose and around the mouth). Then I go to bed and I wake up with somehow better skin (for real). I plan to use this for 6 months and see if I see a decrease in the number of breakouts I get. Then I plan on getting the next strength and see if I can build up a tolerance. 

I plan on update my progress on Retin-A!


Update 1 (30/04): This is seriously amazing stuff... after one month my acne has cleared up completely! I still haven't experienced the purge stage (which I'm scared of). The only downside is that my skin is sometimes extremely flaky and I can't cover that with anything. Even wearing sunscreen makes my flakiness too obvious... I guess that after some time my skin will get used to Retin-A and the flaking will stop. 


Tuesday 9 April 2013

[Review] Hadalabo Super Hyaluron Gokujyun

Today I wanna review a product that I have been using the last 6 months with great results. 




It is Gokujyun Super Hyaluronic Acid by Hadalabo, a toner that contains a high amount of hyaluronic acid. It has been a hit in Japan since it was released and I can see why. 







This toner really makes my skin feel plump and moisturized. It has a rather runny consistency, and feels like water when you apply it to the skin. I like mixing it with my other creams too for adding some extra moisturizing power to them. 


How do I use it?

After washing my face, I usually put one to two drops on my hands and then I pat my wet face for around 20 seconds. Then I start layering my other skincare, such as Missha's version of SK-II toner, my glycolic acid cream and finally I apply my absolutely favorite Naruko Apple Seed & Tranexamic Acid Night Gelly on top to seal everything. 

I like the fact that my skin feels plump and supple after using this. I really think this helps to prep the skin before the main skincare. I will continue using this to see further results. 

You can also mix this toner with ascorbic acid powder to create your own vitamin-c serum (normally you mix 5 parts of this with 1 part of ascorbic acid to create a 20% vitamin-c solution). It is cheap and works like a charm. 

Tuesday 26 March 2013

Getting rid of a permatan

Because of all the years I have spent in the sun as a child with no sunscreen, my face is now 3 to 4 shades darker than the rest of my body, something that I find really annoying. That permanent skin darkening is called "permatan" since your skin cells have already been damaged and are no longer producing your original skin color, but a darker skin color in order to protect that part of your skin from future sun damage.

I just want to even out the color of my face so it matches the rest of my body. That's why I have decided to remove my permatan. 

Fortunately, all sun damage is -to some extent- reversible. The most widely used product is Retin-A or any tretinoin based product. That alone can reverse a lot of sun damage. But in order to achieve an even skin color, you must follow a set of rules. 

I have done tons of research about this topic and I have found what are the keys for getting rid of a permatan.


1) Exfoliate with a good AHA exfoliant, such as a weekly peel of lactic acid or glycolic acid (percentages should be between 40-50%). Lactic acid is actually better since it works best for people with sensitive skin and it has moisturizing properties. It also inhibits melanin protection and helps prepare the skin so it can absorb better all the products you're putting in. No whitening serum or cream will work if your skin isn't well exfoliated. Of course, using any tretinoin product is great too for exfoliation.

Product recommendations: Retin-A, Paula's Choice 2% BHA Liquid, MUA Lactic Acid 40%


2) Whiten your skin with a good serum or cream that has proven whitening ingredients. Some ingredients that have shown to work are arbutin, kojic acid, licorice, niacinamide, vitamin c, tranexamic acid, glutathione, sepiwhite, alpha arbutin, gigawhite, azelaic acid... etc. 

Product recommendations: Naruko Derma Pro Multi Peptide Brightening Serum, UNT Ex White Serum, Skinfood Omija Whitening Serum. 


3) Protect your skin always with a good sunscreen (preferably zinc oxide based). Zinc oxide protects skin for both UVA and UVB, so it is one of the more reliable ingredients. You have to use sunscreen every single day, even if it is cloudy or rainy. 

Product recommendations: Biotherma Mineral Sunscreen SPF50+++, Ducray Melascreen Lotion SPF50++


I am gonna start this regimen soon. Will keep updating~!

Wednesday 20 March 2013

Asian Beauty vs Western Beauty

This entry is not supposed to offend anyone. It is just my view on Asian and Western concepts of beauty, and why they are so different. 

So, what are the main differences between Asian and Western concepts of beauty and why?


1) Skin: white vs tanned




We all know Westerners love to bake in the sun, to the point where most of them look orange and strange. I never understood that "healthy glow" that the sun is supposed to give you; if anything, I think being tanned makes you look older and weird. Plus, it promotes wrinkles and premature aging. And if that wasn't enough, baking in the sun can increase your chances of getting skin cancer or melanoma. 

Whereas in Asia it's quite the opposite. They aim to be as white as possible. And the most common missunderstanding among Westerners is that they do that in order to achieve a "Caucasian" look. That doesn't make any sense at all. That's like saying that all White people that bake in the sun are aiming to be like black people. Probably no one would claim that. And yet, they insist Asians want to be white like Westerners... like if all Westerners were white! There's all sorts of colors in the Western, ranging from pasty white to light olive. 

So, what is the reason behind that quest for pale skin? Until not so long time ago, both European and Asian cultures coveted pale skin as it was an indicator of high social status (people that didn't have to work outside so their skin remained pale). The only difference is that in the 20th century, with most people starting to work indoors, having tanned skin started to become associated with being able to afford vacations, and thus, higher status. That only happened in the West though. In Asia, the old standard of "pale skin= higher status" prevailed. So it has nothing to do with wanting to be Caucasian, it's more about social status. Also, there's the fact that Asians tend to get sun spots easily and are prone to melasma, so the wise thing would be to avoid the sun as much as possible. And that's what they do. 


2) Eyebrows: straight vs arched





Having straight natural eyebrows is a trend that started in Korea. Its main goal is to make eyebrows look as natural as possible. They are often thick and a bit bushy and have this characteristic straight shape, and they are shaped with some scissors and a tiny razor. Koreans think straight eyebows give you a clean and cute look. 

In the West you can see all kinds of eyebrows, but one of the most popular shapes is having them arched. They are supposed to emphasize the eyes and give you a sexy look. Personally, I was into this kind of eyebrow some years ago, but now I find it a bit too bold. Plus, eyebrows that are too thin or too arched can actually make you look older. 



3. Makeup: minimal vs bold




Westerners like to use tons of makeup, and they often overdo it. I just get shocked every time I see Western girls wearing some heavy foundation 3 shades darker than their skin color, their eyes covered in some sparkly eyeshadow all over their lids up to the eyebrow, with tons of shimmering blush and bronzer on their faces, and, if that wasn't horrible enough, with some unflattering lipstick that is rather too bright or too light (kinda like the girl in the pic). Of course there's Westerners that do a more subtle and natural makeup, but I see girls like the one in the pic everyday, and they are just disturbing :s

I feel Asians are more on the soft side: they prefer a more natural look that often consists of light foundation or BB cream, black eyeliner, mascara and some natural lipstick. And of course I have seen Asians overdoing their makeup too (like some Japanese girls wearing tons of blush and 2 layers of fake eyelashes that were too obvious and too bad glued) but, in general, I have the sensation they prefer to go for a "no-makeup" makeup. 


***

So I think these are the main differences between the Asian and the Western standards of beauty. While I truly like the Asian standard because it emphasizes being natural above all, I also dislike the fact that in Asia seems like there's just one standard of beauty. That would be someone with a small, oval-shaped face, big eyes, a well defined nose and a super thin body, with almost no shapes. In the West seems like there's more than just one standard of beauty, and that's good, but, again, media tends to idolize being skinny and tanned above all, and that makes tons of girls to choose unhealthy lifestyles, like starving themselves to achieve that super skinny body and going to tanning saloons every week to be as orange as their idols, given that having a pale complexion is viewed as "unhealthy". Some people are being insulted in the West for being too pale and never getting a tan; whereas in Asia that is viewed as pretty and desirable. Such a weird world, right? The grass is always greener on the other side. 

Thursday 28 February 2013

[Review] Revlon Colorstay Foundation

I've been using this foundation for almost a year now, so I think it is about time to make a review.



I got this in the Normal to Dry skin version, since the Normal to Oily version contains a high amount of alcohol. Also, the smell of this one is not as strong as the Normal/Oily version.

The color I got is 110 Ivory. Previously to this I used Buff, which also seems to fit me. The problem is, Ivory is too much pink undertoned and Buff is too much yellow undertoned. I wish Revlon made more neutral undertones for their foundations. But since you have to blend them a lot, it doesn't really  matter as the undertone is not as obvious when it's on your skin. 



One thing that really bothers me about this foundation is that it comes without a pump! Seriously, I dunno what Revlon people were thinking when they came out with this, but this is really annoying since the lack of a pump doesn't give you any kind of control about how much product you are pouring, and because of this I tend to pour way too much. So I always end up wasting too much product. I know that in Japan they sell this foundation with a pump (as far as I know, the only place where they do that) and I wonder when Revlon will start making their Colorstay foundation with a pump for the rest of the world, lol. 



The color itself is a beige with some slighty pink-peached undertone. It looks a bit dark at first but when you blend it, it looks really natural. 


Blended.


This foundation has a medium coverage that can be build up to get a full coverage. Usually, it takes 2-3 layers to achieve that. It has a matte finish and even if you do not set it with loose powder, it has a really long stay power on the skin, which is what I really like this foundation.

I don't really like wearing heavy coverage, and usually I prefer to wear BB cream or some tinted moisturizer, but when I have an special event then I like to use Revlon's foundations since they give me the best coverage and staying power. And on top of that, they are affordable!

Would I buy it again? Yes, in fact, this is the second tube I'm using.

Friday 15 February 2013

[Review] Naruko Apple Seed & Tranexamic Acid Night Gelly


Naruko is a brand that never fails to impress me. Their products are very gentle on skin yet efective; almost all their products have whitening properties (among other good ingredients such as antioxidants); they try to avoid harmful ingredients as much as they can, and, still, they keep very reasonable prices with their products!


I bought this five months ago because I was in need of some whitening night treatment. I was so impressed when I saw the list of ingredients that I had to order this on ebay!


This is the list of ingredients. The whitening ingredients are highlighted:


Tranexamic Acid 3%, Purified Water (Aqua), Apple Seed Extract, Phytoferulin® [Kalanchoe Spathulata Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Scutellaria Alpina Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Peucedanum Ostruthium Leaf Extract, Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract, Artemisia Umbelliformis Extract, Leontopodium Alpinum Extract, Epilobium Fleischeri Extract, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract, Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract], Snow Fungus (Tremella Funciformis) Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Alpha-Arbutin, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Saccharide Isomerate, Phragmites Kharka Extract, Poria Cocos Extract, Jojoba Oil/Simmondsia Chinensis, Meadowfoam Seed Oil, Galactoarabinan, Phenyl Trimethicone, Ethyl Alcohol, Sodium Polyacrylate, Sclerotium Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, Essential Oils of Lavender, Chamomile (Anthemis Nobilis)


So, as you can see, this has 6 whitening ingredients! Alpha-arbutin is particularly one of the best whitening ingredients, along with licorice. Tranexamic acid is supposed to have some whitening properties too, but I haven't heard a lot about this ingredient yet. 


This has a tiny amount of alcohol and lavender, so they shouldn't suppose any concern for the skin. 



So, what is a night gelly?




If you are familiar with Korean sleeping packs, you probably know they are a product in gel type that you are supposed to massage into your skin before going to sleep, and it has to be rinsed off the following morning. I think night gellies are exactly the same: they have a similar texture and a similar finish: they never sink into your skin, they just set as if they were a mask. They usually have moisturizing, smoothing and whitening properties, and they can improve skin with constant use. 



Texture: it's a gel type and very runny. A little goes a long way, so this gelly can last for months. 


Smell: it smells kinda botanical and medicinal at the same time... it's a bit strong at first but fades away fast. Naruko believes in aromatherapy, and adds essential oils to most of their products. In my humble opinion, I would enjoy the products more if they were fragance-free (I just don't like having fragrance on my face). 

Performance: This is supposed to whiten/brighten your skin with constant use. However, I haven't been very constant with this (I'm using too many products at the same time) so I only use it once or twice a week. I have seen an improvement in my overall skin tone, but I believe it is due to my overall use of whitening skin care ;)


Would I recommend this to a friend? Yes. 


Overall rate: 4/5

Saturday 2 February 2013

[Review] Revlon Colorburst Lipbutter

Since they were released in Spring 2011, Revlon's lipbutters have proven to be extremely popular and raved by all the beauty community. I have to admit I fell in love with the packaging and the beautiful color range so I couldn't wait to try them too!

I got this in Raspberry Pie, Cherry Tart, Tutti Frutti, Peach Parfait and Crème Bulée.






From left to right: Raspberry Pie, Cherry Tart, Tutti Frutti, Peach Parfait and Crème Bulée.



They come in a very luxurious packaging that actually shows you the color you are getting. These glide on easily and have a very sheer color that can be build up until you get the coverage you like. They are quite moisturizing and they feel great on the lips. If I remember well, they are around $7 each, which is a very good price for such a good quality product. 




Raspberry Pie is a gorgeous deep berry color. This is actually quite pigmented and one of my favorites!

Cherry Tart is a red hue with a subtle shimmer that looks really flattering on lips. This is my second favorite. 

Tutti Frutti is a bright orange that looks scary at first but is actually quite sheer and looks really pretty. 

Peach Parfait is a soft pink-orange-y color. It is very sheer and it has a lot of glitter which, unfortunately, can feel gritty on lips.

Crème Bulée is a very very sheer beige color that needs at least three coats to show off. It's my least favorite since it is the less pigmented lipbutter I own.






Overall, my favorite colors are Raspberry Pie, Tutti Frutti and Cherry Tart. They are the most pigmented and just look gorgeous with any look!


PROS:

-Moisturizing, sheer lip balm.
-Colors can be build up.
-Beautiful color range.
-Good price.

CONS: 

-You have to reapply every 2-3 hours since they don't last a lot on lips.
-Some colors have way too much glitter.


Would you repurchase? Yes! I plan on getting more! ;)

Friday 1 February 2013

Clarisonic dupe: Boots No7 Beautiful Skin Cleansing Brush

I've been wanting to try Clarisonic for a while, since I can only hear people praising it and saying how it changed their skin for better. I have to confess I've been intrigued by people claiming that this device helps to reduce your breakouts. That is apparently due to the daily exfoliation, which makes your pores cleaner and without all the gunk that can potentially clog them and make you breakout. If that's true, seems like Clarisonic is the thing my skin has been always waiting for! I really wanted to try this... until I saw the price! Seriously, I cannot justify the $130 price tag... even if it works as promised... this is just a rotating brush that helps to exfoliate your skin. I don't believe this brush should be more than $30. But of course, the company stuck to a high price tag to create a sense of exclusivity of this product. 

So because I wanted to try the goodness of rotating facial brushes, I've been looking for a dupe everywhere. Needless to say, I found tons of dupes, and even if they are not as expensive as Clarisonic, they still have high price tags. Then Boots, one of my favorite drugstore and pharmacy chains, announced they would release their own cleansing brush under their brand No7. I was super excited and I grabbed mine as soon as it was released. 




This was released on January 23rd with a promotional price of £15, but the normal price will be £25 by the end of February. So I think this is a bargain!




From what I have seen, the main differences between Clarisonic and this are that the No7 device is somewhat bigger (compared to the Mia models) and that this works with batteries inside. And unlike Clarisonic, there's only one model to choose from and just one color (white). That doesn't bother me at all, though I have to confess the Clarisonic Mia design is rather cute. Another difference is that the Boots device doesn't come with a lid or a storage poach, so I just use a makeup bag for keeping it safe from dust and other stuff. 





Prior to using this, I was scared that the bristles would be too hard and would damage and tear my skin.... but turns out they are super soft! I didn't experience any harm or anything (just if I pressed too hard) and it didn't leave my skin red and flaky as I thought it would. I've been using this brush with my all-time favorite Tamagohada AHA+BHA cleanser, and I think it works best, since this cleanser is very very creamy and foams easily. 





After cleansing my skin with this, my skin is super soft and clean. I don't experience any redness and looks like my moisturizer absorbs better! I don't use this everyday since I've somewhat sensitive skin; however, it you have normal to oily skin then it's probably fine to use it everyday. I've decided to use this 3 times a week just for the sake of keeping my skin well exfoliated so I can prevent breakouts. I can't wait to see if that's true. 

I will update my thoughts on this device after I've used it for a longer time. 

Update 1 (20/02): I've been using this for three weeks and so far, I haven't had any breakouts, which is a record for me! I think using this 3-4 times a week helps to keep clear skin. Also, I like the fact that my skin feels soft and that my serums and creams seem to absorb way better. Will continue updating soon!

Update 2 (21/03): I used too much pressure so I ended up with one of my cheeks being red and flaky for two days... ouch. It was really painful.   Fortunately, my cheek has recovered now and I have learnt the lesson: never use too much pressure when using this or you will end up with red and rashy skin. I think staying gentle is the key.

Thursday 31 January 2013

[Review] Missha Time Revolution The First Treatment Essence
























This is Missha's version of SK-II infamous Facial Treatment Essence. SK-II products contain the star ingredient saccharomycopsis ferment filtrate, also named pitera, which is a yeast derived from the fermentation of sake. According to SK-II, pitera has moisturizing and antioxidant properties, and it is found in every single product of this brand.

So, how is Missha's essence related to all of this? Missha uses a yeast named saccharomyces ferment filtrate in their essence, which is derived from beer. And the most interesting thing, both yeasts are from the same family. Does that mean that they will work the same? I think it is very likely.

Now let's check the ingredients of both products. I will highlight the most exciting ingredients in each product.

SK-II Facial Treatment Essence

Saccharomycopsis Ferment Filtrate (90%), Butylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Aqua, Sodium Benzoate, Methylparaben, Sorbic Acid

Missha The First Treatment Essence

Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate (80%), Propanediol, LicoriceNiacinamide, Polyquaternium-51, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract, Raffinose, Amaranthus Caudatus Seed, Piper Methysticum Leaf/Root Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Beta Vulgaris Root, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis, Camomille Extract, Phellodendron Amurense Bark, Cassia Alata Leaf Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Hydrolyzed Corn Starch, Tromethamine, Water, Adenosine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Lactic Acid, Phenoxyethanol


Well... Missha is a clear winner here! It has a lot of beneficial ingredients apart from the mentioned yeast, such as licorice extract, niacinamide, bifida ferment lysate, centella asiatica, hyaluronic acid, adenosine, lactic acid... etc. But SK-II only focuses on one star ingredient, and I think that's a shame. Given that you have to pay around $150 for SK-II essence, I would expect to get a more exciting formula other than the one offered (which is a very basic water-based toner with two moisturizing ingredients, three preservatives and the infamous yeast). Even if pitera was as good as SK-II claims, I just cannot justify the price. I think Missha did a good job in offering an "improved" version of this toner by adding tons of beneficial ingredients with moisturizing, whitening, antioxidant and anti-inflamatory properties. 

In fact, this was a huge hit in Korea and it is said Missha sold 1 million units in one year! And it's just around $30 in Korea, so it is waaaaay more affordable than the SK-II one. 


My review




I got this in the 30ml version, which is a travel size. But you can get the full size (150ml) for around $34 on ebay, which is 5 times cheaper than SK-II toner!

This is applied immediately after washing your face, to help retain the moisture. Usually I use 2-3 drops  of this and I apply it to my face with my hands while doing a massage. 

I think this toner works best for people with oily to normal skin, since it is very lightweight and it absorbs super fast. It could also work for people that suffer from discolorations, since its high content of niacinamide and licorice would help to lighten and even out skin tone. I have seen an improvement in my dark spots, and I think it is thanks to using this product along with my whitening serum and moisturizer.

I am overall very satisfied with this and I can't wait for trying the full size!

Overall rate: 5/5

Friday 25 January 2013

[Review] Naruko Raw Job's Tears Whitening Morning Yogurt


Naruko has become of my favorite skincare brands. They use state-of-the-art ingredients, they have superior formulations and the best is that their prices are affordable. What is not to love? 

They have several lines: Raw Job's Tears (whitening), Apple Seed and Tranexamic Acid (dull skin), Rose Fungus (dry skin), Tea Tree (troubled skin), Lupin (wrinkles), Narcissus (fine lines)... etc. 

I have used products from the Raw Job's Tears and the Apple Seed line and I have to say, gotta love them all!

This is my current moisturizer. I like it because it is very lightweight (meaning, no clogged pores!) and because it has whitening properties. This was around $23 off ebay, which is a really good price considering what you get. 

About the ingredients: this contains several whitening ingredients, such as licorice, tranexamic acid, alpha-arbutin, ethyl ascorbic acid and lactic acid. It also has some other beneficial ingredients, like green tea, retinol, peptides, yogurt powder, gingko, grape extract and jojoba. I think it is a very good formulation for a moisturizer (if not the best formulation I've ever seen!). It's hard to find a moisturizer that has so many good ingredients. Also, they don't use alcohol or a heavy amount of silicones, so there's no risk for irritation or break-outs!

And the texture is superior. 


 


I have been using this for 4 months now and I have to say, I am very happy I bought this. Prior to this, I was using heavy moisturizers that I suspect that were clogging my pores. But most Naruko products come in gel form and are very light. They also absorb really quick and don't leave your skin with a sticky feel. 

Also, I have noticed that my acne scars and my hyperpigmentation don't look as obvious now. I think it's thanks to the skincare regimen I'm following now. You should use this with a serum for better results (I have been using Skinfood Omija Whitening Serum. See my review here) and stay away from the sun as much as possible (and use a sunblock with a high SPF).

To sum up:

PROS: brilliant formula, helps lighten skin, light texture, non comedogenic, non pore-clogging, affordable price. 

CONS: None. Well... you have to purchase this online if you don't live in Taiwan :/

Would I repurchase? Yes, yes and definetly yes! This has become my HG moisturizer and I hope Naruko never discontinues it!

Overall rating: 5/5

Monday 21 January 2013

[Review] Baviphat Lemon Whitening Sleeping Pack


I bought this last year because I wanted to try Korean sleeping masks and this is probably one of the most popular ones. It claims to brighten skin while you are sleeping and to even out skin tone when used regularly. 

I couldn't find the complete list of ingredients nowhere, but apparently this contains lemon extract, which is a source of vitamin C, and arbutin, a whitening ingredient derived from plants like bearberries. This sounded really promising and I couldn't wait to try this. 


How it looks like

This comes in a cute lemon-shaped packaging. The product itself is a light yellow-colored gel that has a strong smell of lemon biscuits. It comes with a spatula, so this is rather hygienic! And you don't need to apply a lot (otherwise if would feel sticky on the skin). 

Usually I apply this at night, on my face, neck and underarms. If I use this on my face, I usually don't apply other products. 


Results

I used this every other night for 2-3 months before I ran out of this product. Usually, i used this twice a week for a quick treatment. You are not supposed to use sleeping packs every day, they are more like a weekly treatment. 

Did I see any results? Sadly no. When I woke up the day after my skin looked the same. I couldn't see any brightening or improving on my skin tone. 

Would I recommend it? No. I would say skip this and get a whitening serum instead. It will be more effective. 

Overall rating: 2/5

Saturday 19 January 2013

My thoughts on Likas Papaya Soap


I bought this last year at my local Filipino store . I was so excited because I had read tons of rave reviwes online and I thought I would like to give it a try to fade my old acne scars. At first I thought it was working indeed. I used it in both my face and my underarms (to brighten them). I thought it was awesome (and strange) that my face looked so brightened after rinsing the soap off. It looked really really fair, like if my skin had lightened 2-3 shades all of a sudden. Saddenly, this effect didn't last long, and it fade away after some minutes. I still kept using it religiously 2 a day, hoping to make my ance scarring less obvious and my underarms a bit less embarrassing. But then, after 2 weeks of using this, I started breaking out badly on my cheeks. At first, I didn't think this soap could be the culprit, so I kept using it. Only when I stopped using it, my face started to got clearer (but it left me with some awful acne scarring on my cheeks that I'm still trying to heal). 

I was so disappointed. I couldn't understand why a supposedly "natural" soap could have such a strong reaction on my skin. Then I decided to look at the ingredients. This has 9 types of soap... 9! If one type of soap is bad enough for drying out your skin, imagine what 9 types could do. This soap strips away every single oil of your skin. It is not gentle at all. But that is not everything. When looking at the ingredients, I noticed something very strange. This has sunscreen, in the form of titanium dioxide. And guess what titanium dioxide does after you apply it to your face? Yes, it leaves you an annoying white cast that makes you look pale like a ghost. Titanium dioxide is used both as a sunscreen and as a pigment to color cosmetics. And surprisingly, it is used in Likas Papaya Soap to make you think it is "whitening" your skin, when in fact it is only leaving you some white pigment that fades away when you wash your skin again. Simply as that. 


And what about the famous papaya ingredient that is supposed to lighten your skin? Let's see. Papaya enzyme has indeed some mild (very mild) exfoliation properties, and this soap contains indeed some papaya... as the last ingredient. So it probably has a tiny amount just so the makers can say they're using that ingredient. And I guess a "Papaya soap" sounds more attractive to customers than a "Titanium dioxide soap" that can only whiten your skin in the same way makeup and sunscreens do. 


You could at least say that this works well as a soap. But no. This has sodium laureth sulfate, a known skin drying ingredient that irritates your skin with constant use. You know you are using cleansers with SLS it they leave your skin dry and tight after rinsing. Doesn't matter how much you moisturize afterwards, the harm is already done. SLS works by stripping the natural oils of your face, and therefore it can trigger acne. I got really painful breakouts on my cheek after using Likas as a face cleanser. So you don't want this soap or any soap in bar form near your face, if you don't wanna ruin your skin. 


So I hope I helped people understand how the "magic" in this soap works. I was very disappointed myself when I figured out everything. But I guess it was too good to be true. 

Thursday 10 January 2013

BB cream brands that I recommend

There's not that many BB cream brands that I trust. Most BB creams I have tried have caused me some irritation or have broke me out. I blame my sensitive and super reactive skin, that seems to react to almost everything >< Some of the BB creams that didn't work well for my skin were some of the famous ones: Missha Perfect Cover and Skin79 Hot Pink, Gold and Orange labels were awful for my skin. 

Fortunately, there's some brands out there that seem to be fine with my skin. They don't irritate my skin or clog my pores.... even if I wear them all day!


So these are my current favorite brands for BB creams:


BRTC




BRTC is a Korean brand that specializes in creating products that are suited for all kinds of troubled and sensitive skin (yay!). BRTC stands for "Bio Remedies Therapeutic Cosmetic" and they claim to use plant extracts to soothe and calm skin. It is a rather expensive brand and hard to find in Korea (as far as I know, they are only sold in some shopping malls like W-store or Coex Mall).


So far, they have launched 6 BB creams: Gold Caviar, Jasmine Water, Aqua Rush, Blemish Recover, Whitening and Repairing and Glossy Shining BB cream (this last one has been discontinued, I think). I have tried Jasmine Water BB cream and Whitening and Repairing BB cream, and I'm pleased with both of them. They have great coverage, they set really fast on my skin and they have a great staying power. They also look beautiful, flattering and quite natural. But the most important thing is that they didn't break me out or irritated my skin, so that's extra points for them. 


I know this brand (as many other Korean brands) can be found across Asia, but, unfortunately, if you live in Europe you can only get them through Internet. I always use ebay for getting the best deals, since this brand is not particularly cheap. 


ElishaCoy




When it comes to BB creams, I consider that ElishaCoy makes some of the best ones in the market. Why? Because they have outstanding ingredients, they don't irritate my skin or make me breakout, and they blend easily and look really natural. 


ElishaCoy is not as famous as other Korean makeup brands such as Missha, Skin79, Etude House or The Face Shop. Maybe it's because they don't have their own stores and they are rather sold in some selected department stores (like in Lotte Plaza or JN Shopping Mall). 

Getting information from this brand is a bit difficult. I only could find that this brand was launched in 2007. Their name "ElishaCoy" comes from hebrew "Elisha", which means "God saviour" and "Coy" is an acronim for "Creation of Youth". So, ElishaCoy translates as something like "God saviour that creates youth". In other words, they are a brand that want to promote young and healthy skin. They also define themselves as an organic skincare brand that uses botanical ingredients while using high technology at the same time. Sounds like the claims of every other brand nowadays, huh? :)

So far, they have 6 BB creams (Always Nudy, Always Triple, Always Baby, Premium Gold Mineral, Diamond Shiny Pearl and Time Capsule). I only own Gold Mineral, but I want to try more BB creams from this brand in the future (Always Triple and Time Capsule tempt me!). 



Palgantong




Palgantong is a professional makeup brand founded in 1989 in Korea. They have really standing products, known for their quality and long staying power. Their most famous product is probably their Theatrical Powder, a high quality loose powder that I simply can't live without. It is said to be the number 1 best selling loose powder in Japan since it was launched in 2001.


By the way, their name comes from the Korean words 빨간 (palgan= red) and 통 (tong= box), thus, making reference to their most famous product. 


Their BB creams are also worth to mention, since they are also high quality, have long staying power and are not comedogenic. So far, they have launched 4 BB creams; Vita White, One Touch, Theatrical BB and German BB. I have only tried Vita White and I'm in love. It blends beautifully with the skin and looks stunning. I wanna try the Theatrical one in the future. 


Their BB creams have some good ingredients like arbutin, hyaluronic acid or vitamin E. But it is not because of the ingredients why I love this brand: it is more about the finish and the general performance they provide. Ingredients-wise, I guess I prefer ElishaCoy BB creams since they have stunning ingredients known to be good for the skin. But if you want a smooth, perfect finish, I guess Palgantong have the best BB creams for achieving that. 


[Review] ElishaCoy Gold Mineral BB Cream


This BB cream comes in two sizes. The regular size (50ml) and the travel size (15ml). I got the travel size since the regular size is rather expensive (it costs around $30) while the small one costs around $8. Also, I didn't want to get the full size since I have had some bad experiences with some BB creams in the past that made me break out (Missha Perfect Cover, I'm looking at you!!) and I wanted to be sure the BB cream was fine with my skin before getting the full size. Well, I have to say I might get the full size in the future. This has become one of my favorite BB creams ;)

I picked this BB cream for various reasons. First because I was curious about this brand and I wanted to try their products. Second, this has a high SPF rating (SPF45PA+++) with whitening and anti-wrinkle properties. And third (and most important reason): because of the ingredients! I have never seen a BB cream that has so many beneficial ingredients in one bottle!


The most outstanding ingredients are titanium and zinc oxides (very reliable sunscreens), arbutin (whitening properties), sodium hyaluronate (moisturizer), vitamin e (antioxidant), adenosine (anti-inflammatory), hydrolyzed collagen (moisturizer), royal jelly extract (healing), lysine, arginine, aspartic acid, proline, alanine (all moisturizers), methionine (antioxidant), Japanese camellia (skin conditioning), purslane (antioxidant) and Cornelian cherry (skin conditoning). And, as the name suggests, this also has some amount of gold, which as far as I know it is used as a pigment, so it doesn't have any extraordinary properties. But I guess naming something with "gold" makes it more attractive to customers. 


So as you can see this has a good amount of moisturizing and antioxidant ingredients, something that makes this BB cream a good value for protecting your skin and keeping it healthy and moisturized. It is also non comedogenic and has some anti-inflammatory ingredients for preventing skin irritation. 





When you first squeeze this BB cream, you notice the color. Now, most BB creams have this unflattering grey or pinkish undertone that I'm not a big fan of. But Premium Gold has a rather beautiful, flattering beige undertone, which was a relief. If something, I would say it is a bit yellow undertoned, but just a bit. The color might look a bit pale, but it oxidises quite fast so it looks really natural on your skin.Mostly is just a beige tone that I think would suit most skin tones between N15-25. The texture is more fluid than other BB creams (think of the thickness of Skin79 BB creams!). Not too thick but not too runny at the same time. It spreads easily and you just need a tiny amount for your whole face.  I also like the fact that this has a dewy finish rather than a matte one, but in a very subtle way, so your face doesn't look oily or anything like that. This has a rather pleasant smell which it is not overpowering, so I don't have any complains.

The only downside is that if you use this BB cream alone the staying power is not that great (maybe just 3-4 hours). So you need to set this with a good loose powder  (I use my beloved Palgantong Theatrical Powder for this).


Overall, I would recommend this BB cream, especially for those individuals that have normal to dry skin.